South Africa
Johann returned to the homeland, new bride and mother-in-law in tow. We met up with his parents at the airport, bundled into the car, and snoozed only a little.
That afternoon we received a very warm welcome from Ouma Maureen and Oupa Johan, who are incredibly kind and have a beautiful love of the natural world. It was such a privilege to get to spend time with them; they told us amazing stories, and Oupa Johan shared his stunning artwork with us and gave us a tour of his work space.
South Africa, where they braai lamb chops in the grocery store. Of all the countries we visited, we think this one has the largest meat sections (floor area percentage-wise). [📸 Rachel]
That plant is called a "mother-in-law's tongue", or also a "snake plant". I'm sure it's totally fine that both those names go with the same plant... [📸 Rachel]
We spent a few days around Mbombela (previously Nelspruit). One day we visited the local botanical gardens, where instead of orderly beds, the plants are enmeshed in curated forest ecosystems. Ancient cycads were featured in a robust collection, some with huge red cones. And there were frogs! (And also twig snakes, which are highly poisonous, and which we got really close to!)
We think more botanical gardens should be planned as enmeshed ecosystems - it was magical. [📸 Rachel & Carla]
Another day we drove through hills of extensive pine plantations to a waterfall. We took a lift to the canyon bottom and strolled through exquisite mist forest. Overhead, people threw themselves off the cliff (rope attached) and swung wildly on what they call ‘The Big Swing.’ NO THANK YOU.
Johann was crushed that his crushed bread got crushed. [📸 Rachel & Johann]
After a few days, we headed into Kruger National Park to see what we could see. It turned out to be a lot! Lions, elephants, hippos and buffalo. Saddle-billed storks and wild dogs (both endangered), hyenas and lilac-breasted rollers. Rachel teleported from the third row of seats to the front when a chameleon was spotted crossing the road (she likes ‘em a wee bit).
Who you gonna call? GHOST POPS!!1! [📸 Rachel & Johann]
We did have an exciting encounter with a twitchy elephant which involved an obnoxious safari van, many cars rapidly turning around, and some very stompy walking. On a more peaceful note, giraffes and zebras grazed side by side while ox-peckers dined on the ticks attached to their bodies.
For the record, African wild dogs are quite endangered. We were somehow lucky enough to see two sizable packs, all just lounging and playing right next to the road. You know... not to boast or anything :) [📸 Johann & Rachel]
Halfway through our visit, we nipped out of Kruger and into Sabie Park for a wonderful 80th birthday celebration for Oupa Johan. Johann’s Tannie (aunt) Lorinda and Oom (uncle) Andres generously hosted us, sharing her love for animals and his dry wit (many laughs).
Awwwwww the Cape buffalo and the turtle are kissing! [📸 Rachel & Carla]
At the end of our Kruger Park visit we were overflowing with all of the incredible creatures and landscapes we had seen. We were also filled with the need to run around after spending most days in the car on DIY safaris. At least Rachel was; she did, and she was very sore the next day.
Throughout, we were fed very well, continuing the parental work which began in Argentina to reverse the effects of constant exercise and haphazard feeding. Ouma Maureen cooked hearty meals, and Rachel’s world was rocked by paptert (maize casserole). Jomar braaied often, and Andres and Lorinda served up the most sublime giant braaied prawns. (For those who don’t know, braai is South African BBQ, and is something of a religion.) It ‘twas scrumptious!
In South Africa we have braais, because "BBQ" is a potato chip flavour. [📸 Rachel, Carla, Johann, & Jomar]
We returned to Nelspruit for more welcome visiting with family before driving over to the Louise’s family farm near Nxuba (previously Cradock). Two days in the car and so many beautiful landscapes!
The place we stayed near Oupa & Ouma Barnard's house had resident chickens, one of which would sleep in a basket inside the guesthouse! And in the last photo, there are three Johannes Marthinus Barnards! [📸 Rachel & Carla]
We bumped along the dirt farm road to Leliekloof, a farm (primarily for sheep and goats) which has been in the Coetzer family for over a hundred years. The original farmhouse, which the family still inhabits, dates from the 1870s! At the base of a rocky knoll lies a graveyard, with its rows of little white crosses marking the remains of children taken by the Spanish Flu in 1918.
For the record, Lola the dachshund is the boss op die plaas. [📸 Rachel & Carla]
It is a special place of rock-strewn mountains and star-filled skies. Merino sheep and angora goats roam and nibble, and the shouts of wild baboons echo in the hills. Ancient cycads sprout among the rocks, and frogs and crabs dwell in clear flowing river pools. We spent our days wandering and exploring, learning about life (and death) on an active farm and sitting down to delicious lunchtime feasts.
That's an ICBC-approved way to ride in a farm truck, in case if anyone asks 😉 [📸 Rachel, Carla, Johann & Jomar]
We celebrated Oupa Johann’s 80th birthday with many of the Coetzer clan. On a couple of afternoons, we bumped around the farm in the back of the truck with Oom Riël, and spent a morning picking ripe prickly pears with Oupa Johann. In her warm, well-equipped kitchen, Ouma Karen taught us to make koeksisters (fried, braided dough soaked in cold syrup - a.k.a. pure joy). We took a day trip to the Mountain Zebra Park, where we saw the titular animals alongside many beautiful antelope. On Easter, we ate gammon (ham) and beef tongue.
You can find Johann and Rachel hiding in your pantry with cider at your next birthday party! [📸 Rachel, Carla, and Johann]
We saw plenty of beautiful wildebeest, springbok, and mountain zebras at Mountain Zebra National Park. Note the stripes on the mountain zebra - they go all the way down their hind legs, and they lack the “shadow stripes” found on most zebras in other parts of the country. [📸 Rachel & Johann]
Bidding a fond farewell, our crew headed to Addo Elephant Park. The most luxurious, gigantic flightless dung beetles were everywhere, working elephant dung into balls to roll away for reproduction. We saw quite a few animals, including elephants (of course), zebras and antelope (kudu bulls with huge horns), jackals, and innumerable warthogs. We were very lucky to observe a bush pig, secretary birds, a caracal, and two black rhinos. Wow!
It’s really easy to relate to dung beetles. Sometimes, you gotta roll shit uphill. [📸 Rachel & Johann]
Our first night was spent in a beautiful tent with a wooden balcony which looked out onto the park. Guinea fowl foraged on a hill, and vervet monkeys energetically chased each other across the roof. Our next place had a spectacular view over an open valley. One rainy morning, cascades of winged ants emerged from the ground, looking like little fairies against the grey clouds. In the field, baboons jumped up in the air to catch and eat them.
Look, it’s really hard work looking for animals from the car all day! Johann needed a nap! [📸 Rachel]
Leaving the park, we drove to Herold’s Bay near George, where we walked on beaches along the Indian Ocean. The snails were marvellous, hundreds of them being rolled by the waves, crawling around, and attempting to burrow down into the sand. We drove the Garden Route, continuing on to Stellenbosch. The scenery was gorgeous, with deep, craggy canyons, tall mountains, ocean waves meeting cliffs, and rolling farmland in red and green.
Yes, of course Rachel jumped into that water. [📸 Rachel & Carla]
We spent a day exploring the Cape Town area, taking in breathtaking views from Table Mountain and Cape Point. The ocean was marbled teal and deep blue with a lacy fringe of foam, waves crashing against the rocky shore.
We got to try ostrich steak! [📸 Rachel & Carla]
At Boulders Beach, we were fascinated by the colony of African penguins on the beach. Mothers sat on their nests with tiny brown fluff balls of chicks, while juveniles followed their parents into the waves on unsteady feet. One had an unexpected sit down due to a sneaky wave. Penguin couples flirted on the beach, touching beaks and grooming each other. One couple went WAY past flirting.
We would like to submit that a penguin lying down should be called a “loaf,” and that a group of penguins lying down should be called a “bakery.” [📸 Rachel]
The next day we headed inland to visit Johann’s welcoming relatives on their extensive fruit farm. The drive to and from took us through powerful, craggy mountains with waterfalls pouring off in the the misty rain. Our final day was spent winery hopping, in which we tried various wines in order to justify eating cheese. Rachel came down with a spectacular case of the hiccups, which was finally cured by downing a shot of vinegar in a cutesy cafe.
Rachel’s hiccups echoed through the halls of every fine winery we visited. [📸 Rachel, Carla, & Jomar]
And then it was time to finally return home. We bid farewell to Johann’s parents at the airport before heading to the V&A waterfront in Cape Town to while away the hours until our 11:45 pm flight. We had a grand time at the aquarium with the sharks and jellies, and tried delicious bobotie at a local food-hall. Finally, we boarded our overnight flight to Paris and attempted sleep.
Cape Town is known for displaying all four seasons in a day… and we think we got most of them in the few hours we spent at the waterfront. [📸 Rachel]
With a 22-hour upcoming layover in Paris, our only goal was to eat macrons in front of the Eiffel Tower with Rachel’s mom. In the ultimate cliffhanger, we shall cruelly end with a prompt to check in next time to see if we succeeded!
